Minshuku Ishibashi (民宿石橋) - Tanesashi
Simple accommodation in an excellent position for the Tanesashi Coast. Hiker support can include help around Same Station and luggage arrangements.
A memorable stay at family-run inn Kagetsutei in Kamaishi (Iwate).
Michinoku Coastal Trail Accommodation: Where to Stay & How to Book
Finding somewhere to sleep is one of the more important parts of planning the Michinoku Coastal Trail.
The MCT passes through large towns where booking a hotel is easy, and through small fishing villages, remote peninsulas and sections where there may be only one realistic place to stay. Accommodation ranges from business hotels and guesthouses to family-run minshuku, traditional ryokan, onsen hotels and hiker-oriented local stays.
This guide focuses on what actually matters for a walking itinerary: where accommodation gets difficult, when to book, how rural Japanese inns work, what you are likely to pay, and which places are genuinely useful for MCT hikers.
I've personally stayed at many of the places below, and I say so where that's the case. Other properties are included because of their location, hiker services, booking accessibility or usefulness to an MCT itinerary.
Accommodation information checked: August 2026. Small rural properties can change opening days, booking methods and services, so reconfirm anything critical before relying on it.
Affiliate disclosure: Some booking links on this page are affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I also include direct and non-affiliate booking options, and accommodation is not ranked by whether it pays a commission.
Where accommodation is easy, and where it isn't
Generally easier
Hachinohe, Kuji, Miyako, Kamaishi, Ofunato, Kesennuma, Ishinomaki and Soma. Multiple choices, shops and transport connections.
Plan ahead
Tanesashi, Noda, Fudai, Tanohata, Taro, Yamada, Karakuwa, Minamisanriku and Ayukawa. Good options exist, but location and availability matter.
Can determine your itinerary
Mt Hashikami, Kitayamazaki, Omoe, Hirota, Kitakami/Ogatsu, parts of Oshika and some island sections.
Do not assume the nearest hotel shown on Google Maps is practical. Ten kilometres can be a very long way at the end of an MCT walking day. If there is only one realistic place to stay at the end of your planned day, book it before you set off.
How far ahead to book
For a short section hike, I'd book everything before you start.
For a thruhike, I prefer a rolling approach: secure the itinerary-determining nights well in advance, then keep roughly the next 3-5 nights booked as you walk rather than locking in a two-month schedule. Weekends, public holidays and festivals can fill quickly.
- Cancellation policies matter. Weather, fatigue and trail conditions can change your pace.
- Solo hikers should check occupancy rules. Some room plans or rates are sold only for two or more guests, even when the room itself could physically accommodate one person.
- No availability online doesn't always mean full. Small inns may release rooms late, keep some rooms off OTAs, or accept bookings directly. Check their website or contact them before giving up.
What does it cost?
Prices vary enormously, but these are useful planning ranges rather than quotes for particular properties.
| Accommodation type | Rough budget | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Hostel / simple guesthouse | ¥3,000-7,000 per person | Dorm or simple room, usually few or no meals |
| Business hotel | ¥5,000-13,000 per room | Private Western room, easy online booking |
| Minshuku | ¥5,000-10,000 per person | Family-run inn, often with breakfast or dinner available |
| Ryokan / onsen inn | ¥7,000-15,000+ per person | Japanese room, meals and often a substantial bath or onsen |
| Higher-end hotel / ryokan | ¥15,000-25,000+ | Better rooms, food, onsen or resort facilities |
| Campsite | Free to roughly ¥2,500 | Huge variation in facilities and season |
For planning purposes, around ¥6,500-10,000 per person is a reasonable starting budget for many indoor MCT nights, with higher costs for resort hotels and more elaborate meal-inclusive ryokan.
Japanese inns often quote prices per person, especially when meals are included. Business hotels usually quote per room. Dinner and breakfast can make a ¥9,000 minshuku much better value than a ¥7,000 hotel room once you count both meals.
Understanding Japanese accommodation plans
Japanese accommodation websites often use the word plan to mean the package attached to your room, especially which meals are included.
- 素泊まり (sudomari): room only, with no meals
- 朝食付き (choshoku-tsuki): breakfast included
- 1泊2食付き / 夕朝食付き: dinner and breakfast included
My recommendation: if you can afford it and enjoy local food, have dinner at some of the smaller family-run inns. Along the Sanriku coast, dinner can be one of the highlights of the stay, with local seafood, vegetables and home-style Tohoku cooking that is difficult to experience in a standard business hotel.
Meals, early starts and dietary requirements
On remote sections, a meal-inclusive inn can be particularly valuable simply because there may be nowhere else to eat that evening.
If you need to leave early, ask whether the inn can prepare onigiri or a packed breakfast instead of a served one. Some hiker-friendly places will also prepare lunch for the following day.
Mention dietary requirements when you book, not at the table. Seafood and fish-based dashi are common. Rural inns can often help with notice, but may struggle if told at dinner.
If dinner is included, arrive when you say you will. At a small inn, someone may be cooking specifically for you. If you're running late, call or message, and do not no-show.
Booking: Booking.com, Rakuten Travel, Trip.com or direct
There is no single site that covers the MCT well, so expect to use a mix.
- Booking.com: usually the easiest for international travellers and particularly useful for conventional hotels.
- Rakuten Travel: extremely useful in rural Japan, especially for ryokan, minshuku and meal-inclusive plans.
- Trip.com: fills several useful gaps with a good English-language booking experience.
- Direct: often best for smaller rural accommodation, especially where you need pickup, luggage help, meals, early breakfast, dietary arrangements, solo booking or a hiker discount.
Where I've written Direct, that's a deliberate recommendation, not a missing link.
Don't be put off by limited English
Many smaller inns along the MCT speak little or no English. That does not mean international hikers are unwelcome. In my experience, and in many stories shared by past MCT hikers, small family-run places can be some of the warmest stays on the trail. A few basic Japanese phrases, a translation app, patience and a smile can go a long way.
Cash, luggage and using towns as bases
Carry cash. Smaller inns and local services may still not accept cards.
If you want to send luggage ahead with a courier such as Yamato, ask your next accommodation first. Small inns cannot always receive unattended luggage, and I would allow at least a couple of days for forwarding.
Basing yourself in a larger town for two nights, then using a train or bus to reach the start or end of nearby sections, is a good way to walk with a lighter pack and solve an awkward accommodation gap. Kuji, Miyako, Kamaishi, Ofunato, Kesennuma and Ishinomaki all work well for this. I recommend doing it occasionally if you want to give your legs and back a break.
MCT Supporters
The official Michinoku Coastal Trail Supporters network is particularly useful for hikers. Local businesses and facilities offer services such as water, toilets, charging, discounts, washing facilities, luggage storage, transport, food, accommodation or somewhere to pitch a tent.
In my experience, the people running these places are often extremely welcoming to MCT hikers too.
Services vary and can change, so check current information if you are relying on something specific.
Camping on the MCT
You do not need to camp to hike the MCT. It is technically possible to thruhike the whole trail while staying in indoor accommodation every night.
Doing that takes careful planning. On a few remote stretches you may need a long walking day or transport such as a train, bus, taxi or pre-arranged pickup to connect the trail with your accommodation. A tent gives you considerably more flexibility, particularly on the remote peninsulas.
A dedicated Michinoku Coastal Trail Camping Guide is planned.
Camping deserves its own page because seasonal opening dates, reservations, showers, hiker rates, campsite gaps and food storage vary enough to need proper treatment. In the meantime, the MCT Supporters directory includes several non-standard places where hikers can pitch by prior arrangement.
Camping deserves its own page because seasonal opening dates, reservations, showers, hiker rates, campsite gaps and food storage vary enough to need proper treatment. In the meantime, the MCT Supporters directory includes several non-standard places where hikers can pitch by prior arrangement.
Where to Stay Along the Michinoku Coastal Trail
The listings run roughly north to south, from Hachinohe in Aomori to Soma in Fukushima. Personally stayed means I have actually stayed there myself. It is not simply a researched recommendation.
Minamisanriku’s Hotel Kanyo: a comfortable hotel with an onsen overlooking the bay
Getting a good night’s sleep in a Japanese-style room in Eboshi-so in Noda
Ohakozaki no yado (御箱崎の宿): a very hiker-friendly option - this is a must when walking the Hakozaki Peninsula
Hotel El Faro, a colourful mobile home option near Onagawa Station
Hachinohe, Tanesashi, Hashikami, Hirono & Kuji
The northern end is relatively easy around Hachinohe and Tanesashi, but accommodation thins out around the inland Mt Hashikami loop.
michill TANESASHI - Tanesashi
A more private, higher-end alternative very close to the Tanesashi coastline, around a two-minute walk from Tanesashi-Kaigan Station. Breakfast-and-dinner plans and seasonal packages are available.
Shiodomi Marinki (民泊 潮ドミマリンキ) - Hashikami
Worth knowing because accommodation around the Mt Hashikami loop is limited. The Airbnb listing specifically welcomes MCT walkers, and pickup from Oja Station may be possible if arranged in advance.
Guesthouse Hamanasu-tei (はまなす亭) - Hirono
A useful budget stop with hiker facilities including water and charging.
Marine Side Spa Taneichi (マリンサイドスパたねいち)
Personally stayedI stayed here during my thruhike and found it an extremely useful stop. It is right on the coast, and having a large bath in the same building is especially welcome after a walking day.
Kuji Grand Hotel (久慈グランドホテル)
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it a practical option for Kuji, around five minutes on foot from Kuji Station, with coin laundry on site. It works well as a straightforward rest, laundry and resupply night.
Mifune Ryokan (三船旅館) - Kuji
Personally stayedI stayed here and enjoyed the traditional, family-run atmosphere. It is around three minutes on foot from Kuji Station. The official site offers room-only and dinner-and-breakfast stays, plus Wi-Fi, a washing machine and the option to arrange lunch.
A small local side story: When I stayed here, I remember the okami-san telling me that the Mifune family had a strong connection to judo. Kuji is the birthplace of legendary judoka Kyuzo Mifune, one of judo's most celebrated masters.
Current payment information indicates cash only. Phone: 0194-53-4063.
Eboshi-so (国民宿舎えぼし荘) - Noda
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it particularly useful in an area where accommodation starts to thin out. Transport arrangements from Noda-Tamagawa Station may be possible.
Fudai, Kitayamazaki & Tanohata
Plan this part before you walk into it. Accommodation location can materially affect your itinerary here.
Ajinoyado Michiai (味処・宿 みちあい) - Fudai
Guest transport around Fudai or Tanohata may be possible by arrangement.
Kurosaki-so (国民宿舎くろさき荘) - Fudai
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it a very useful base for this section. It is close to Kurosaki, and hiker transfers to Fudai Station and Kitayamazaki can make itinerary planning considerably easier.
Hiraiga Kaiso (ひらいが海荘) - Tanohata
Personally stayedA small local stay I used myself around the Tanohata section. It is particularly valuable simply because good options here are limited. The family-run inn has ocean-view rooms, Wi-Fi and a washing machine.
TACHI Stay & Bar - Tanohata
A hiker-oriented stay with shower, washing machine, Wi-Fi, charging and possible guest transport.
Hotel Ragaso (ホテル羅賀荘) - Tanohata
Personally stayedI stayed here and enjoyed it. All rooms face the sea, and the seafood dinner makes it a particularly good choice after a demanding walking day.
Taro, Jodogahama, Miyako & Omoe
Miyako itself has plenty of accommodation. The challenge comes when the trail moves away from town, especially on the Omoe Peninsula. Leave Miyako with a plan.
Greenpia Sanriku Miyako (グリーンピア三陸みやこ)
Useful before or after the remote northern Miyako sections.
Nagisatei Taroan (渚亭たろう庵)
A more traditional, food-focused option around Taro.
Minshuku Jirobeya (民宿治郎兵衛家)
A smaller local stay north of central Miyako.
Jodogahama Park Hotel (浄土ヶ浜パークホテル)
One of the easiest ways to stay beside Jodogahama rather than returning to central Miyako.
Kyukamura Rikuchu-Miyako (休暇村陸中宮古)
Personally camped hereI camped at the adjacent campground rather than staying in the hotel itself. The whole complex, with accommodation, bathing and camping near Anegasaki, is extremely useful for MCT hikers.
Hotel Route-Inn Miyako (ホテルルートイン宮古)
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it a practical Miyako reset night. It is predictable, easy to book, and a good base for laundry, resupply and preparing for the more remote Omoe section.
Nagisahaku Umi no Miyako (渚泊・海の都) - Omoe
Book aheadOne of the most useful hiker-oriented stays in an accommodation-poor area. Services can include food, charging, shoe washing and tent space.
Yamada, Namiita, Kirikiri & Otsuchi
Umineko Onsen Yulax (うみねこ温泉 湯らっくす) - Yamada
Personally stayedI stayed here and found the bed-and-bath combination particularly useful after a walking day, and it is very convenient for the railway.
Sanriku Flower Hotel Hamagiku (三陸花ホテルはまぎく)
Well positioned between Yamada and Kirikiri.
Ogawa Ryokan Kizuna-kan (小川旅館 絆館) - Otsuchi
A useful traditional option with hiker services including Wi-Fi and charging.
SATO Inn (民宿サトウ) - Kirikiri
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it very useful for walkers. It is a family-run inn overlooking Namiita Coast, around five minutes on foot from Namiita-Kaigan Station. Meal plans are available, there is a washing machine and Wi-Fi, and early-start breakfast arrangements may be possible if agreed in advance.
Nebama & Kamaishi
Houraikan (浜べの料理宿 宝来館) - Nebama
A highly regarded local stay immediately beside the Nebama section.
Minshuku Maekawa (民宿前川)
A small local stay with useful hiker facilities.
Ohakozaki no Yado (御箱崎の宿)
My recommendationPersonally stayedOne of my favourite stops on the MCT. The owners are welcoming, English is spoken, the food is excellent, and the location solves a genuine logistical problem in a part of the trail with limited services. Hiker discounts and transport may be available by arrangement.
Book ahead: recommended.
Hotel Kamaishi Hills Riverside (ホテル釜石ヒルズ リバーサイド店)
A straightforward central Kamaishi option.
Kagetsutei (かげつ亭) - Kamaishi
My recommendationPersonally stayedI stayed here and highly recommend it. The interior has been designed with a huge amount of care and is really beautiful, but what stood out most was the family running it. The husband even took me out for an early-morning kayak trip, and his wife lived abroad for many years and speaks excellent English.
It is the kind of warm, personal stay that can become part of the MCT experience rather than just somewhere to sleep.
Hotel Folkloro Sanriku Kamaishi
Current operations are scheduled to end after the 30 October 2026 stay, with a renovated reopening planned for spring 2027.
Check the current operating status before relying on this hotel.
Plan visually with the MCT Google Map
Prefer to plan visually? My interactive Michinoku Coastal Trail Google Map, with 1.3 million+ views, includes accommodation, campsites, visitor centres and other useful stops along the route.
Open the MCT Google Map →You can also click the map image below.
Prefer to plan visually? My interactive Michinoku Coastal Trail Google Map includes accommodation, campsites, visitor centres and other useful stops along the route.
Ofunato & Goishi Coast
Ofunato Onsen (大船渡温泉)
My recommendationPersonally stayedI stayed here and particularly recommend the onsen. The baths look across the sea and are fantastic after a long walking day. If your budget allows for a more comfortable recovery night, this is one I would consider.
Ofunato Plaza Hotel (大船渡プラザホテル)
A straightforward conventional town hotel.
Goishiso Bettei Umi Sanpo (海鮮の宿 ごいし荘別邸 海さんぽ)
Useful if you want to stay near the Goishi Coast rather than returning to Ofunato. This small inn focuses strongly on local Sanriku seafood.
Hirota Peninsula & Rikuzentakata
Minshuku Shida (民宿志田)
A particularly useful local stay on the Hirota Peninsula, with seafood sourced by the fisherman-owner and vegetables from nearby producers.
Phone: 0192-56-3592.
Capital Hotel 1000 (キャピタルホテル1000)
Comfortable conventional accommodation with practical hiker support.
Hotel Sanyo (ホテル三陽)
Particularly useful for hikers, as luggage and other practical support may be available.
Minshuku Musashi (民宿むさし)
Hikers may be able to arrange lunch for the next walking day.
Numataya (沼田屋)
A small local inn where food is an important part of the stay, with Sanriku seafood and seasonal produce. The current official site includes basic English information.
Phone: 0192-55-2542.
Karakuwa
Karakuwa is a good place to choose a locally run inn rather than defaulting to a chain hotel elsewhere.
Minshuku Sakaya (民宿さかや)
A locally run option with hiker services.
Minshuku Nagisa (民宿なぎさ)
Useful extras for overnight hikers can include lunch onigiri and washing-machine use.
Karakuwa Goten Tsunakan (唐桑御殿つなかん)
A memorable, locally run property on the Karakuwa Peninsula, shaped by relationships formed during the recovery after 2011.
Rias Karakuwa Youth Hostel (リアス唐桑ユースホステル)
A practical hiker base with bathing, charging, luggage storage and possible transport.
Kesennuma & Kesennuma Oshima
Kesennuma itself has substantial hotel choice. These stand out for convenience or specific usefulness to hikers.
Kesennuma Plaza Hotel (気仙沼プラザホテル)
A comfortable central option with onsen bathing and easy access to the waterfront.
Slow House Kesennuma (ゲストハウス Slow House 気仙沼)
A more affordable stay with useful hiker facilities.
Guesthouse Kakehashi (ゲストハウス架け橋)
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it a useful smaller guesthouse for the Kesennuma area, with basic hiker support including water and charging.
Guest House Umikaze (ゲストハウス海風) - Kesennuma Oshima
A useful budget option with kitchen, shower, washing machine and charging.
Glamping & Camp CAMELLIA (グランピング＆キャンプ CAMELLIA)
Offers a dedicated MCT hiker option.
Kyukamura Kesennuma-Oshima (休暇村気仙沼大島)
A reliable island hotel that can make the Oshima section easier to structure.
Ryokan Kuroshio (旅館 黒潮)
A traditional alternative on Oshima.
Minamisanriku & Kamiwarizaki
Minamisanriku Manabi no Sato Iriyado (南三陸まなびの里 いりやど)
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it a useful option for this part of Minamisanriku, with Wi-Fi and charging. Lunch for the following day may be arranged.
Minamisanriku Hotel Kanyo (南三陸ホテル観洋)
My recommendationPersonally stayedI stayed here and particularly enjoyed the onsen. The outdoor baths face directly over Shizugawa Bay, making this one of the better comfort stops on the southern half of the MCT.
The hotel also played an important role after the 2011 disaster and continues to run a storyteller bus programme in which staff share experiences of the tsunami and the town's recovery.
Shitamichi-so (下道荘)
A smaller local alternative around Shizugawa.
Minshuku Matsunamiso (民宿 松波荘) - Kamiwarizaki
A small local option in the Kamiwarizaki area. This remains a direct-contact stay.
Direct by phone: 0226-46-9815.
Nagashizuso (ながしず荘) - Kamiwarizaki
A small, family-run inn overlooking the sea in the Tokura area, close to Kamiwarizaki. Dinner-and-breakfast stays are available through the local tourism booking system.
Kitakami & Ogatsu
Book this area before you arrive. Public transport is limited, accommodation is sparse, and a failed booking can leave you with a difficult logistics problem.
m.s.s.books - Ogatsu
Book aheadRun by an MCT thruhiker and designed around what walkers actually need. Services can include accommodation, tenting, laundry, luggage storage, route advice, resupply and transport.
Minshuku-dokoro Magaki (民宿処まがき) - Kitakami
A particularly useful option in one of the trail's biggest accommodation gaps.
Kuwahama Fisherman's Inn (桑浜漁師民宿)
Same-day accommodation may sometimes be possible by phone, and guests may be able to arrange transport back to the trail.
Onagawa, Oshika Peninsula & Ayukawa
The Oshika Peninsula is another area where an online hotel search gives only part of the picture. Some of the most useful accommodation is locally run and needs advance contact.
Hotel El Faro (ホテル・エルファロ) - Onagawa
Personally stayedI stayed here and really enjoyed it. The colourful mobile-home accommodation is unusual and comfortable, and it is literally beside the station, making it exceptionally convenient for hikers. The hotel's story is closely connected to Onagawa's post-2011 recovery.
Minshuku Minamiso (民宿みなみ荘) - Ayukawa
A useful local Ayukawa stay.
Kappo Minshuku Meguro (割烹民宿めぐろ)
A family-run stay where dinner is an important part of the experience. Solo hikers should check occupancy rules before booking.
Shimameguri no Yado Sakai (島周の宿さか井)
A practical base near Ayukawa and Kinkasan. Direct booking is particularly worth checking for solo plans.
Manga Island (マンガアイランド) - Tashirojima
Personally stayedI stayed at Manga Island and think it is one of the most unusual accommodation experiences on the MCT. The cat-themed cabins let you spend the night on Tashirojima rather than treating the island as a rushed day trip.
Seasonal operation: check the current calendar.
Enjoying a post-walk tempura and sashimi dinner at Eboshi-so in Noda
Mifune Ryokan (三船旅館) in Kuji, Iwate Prefecture. Simple, wooden decor with tatami mats, futon and green tea.
Ishinomaki, Higashimatsushima & the Sendai Seaside
Kikuchi Ryokan (菊地旅館) - Ishinomaki
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it a welcoming, straightforward independent ryokan in central Ishinomaki. It is unusually easy for international hikers to book directly in English.
Futaba Inn (ふたば荘 / Futaba Inn) - Ishinomaki
A small independent alternative to Ishinomaki's larger hotels.
KIBOTCHA (キボッチャ) - Nobiru, Higashimatsushima
A distinctive option around five minutes from Nobiru Station. KIBOTCHA occupies a former elementary school rebuilt as a disaster-prevention and learning facility, with indoor accommodation, glamping and paid tenting by prior arrangement.
Dormy Inn EXPRESS Sendai Seaside (天然温泉 海神の湯 ドーミーインEXPRESS仙台シーサイド)
A comfortable chain option on the Sendai coast, with a large natural hot-spring bath, sauna, breakfast and straightforward online booking.
Natori Trail Center: stop here even if you aren't camping
Michinoku Coastal Trail Natori Trail Center · みちのく潮風トレイル 名取トレイルセンター
I've stopped here many times, and I strongly recommend visiting whether or not you intend to camp. It is one of the main information hubs for the whole MCT and a great place to get current trail information, ask questions about upcoming sections, sort out logistics, use showers and laundry, charge devices, refill water, use Wi-Fi and meet the friendly MCTA staff.
There is also an official campground on the grounds. The current MCT Hiker Plan is ¥880 per adult. Hikers arriving on foot can receive some additional flexibility around check-in if they contact the centre ahead.
One warning: the site can be exposed to strong wind, so take that seriously when pitching.
Worth stopping even if you sleep elsewhere.
If you are walking through Yuriage, this is an excellent place to check the next few days of your route and get local advice.
If you are walking through Yuriage, this is an excellent place to check the next few days of your route and get local advice.
Natori, Yuriage & Watari
Natori Yuriage Onsen Rinrin no Yado (名取ゆりあげ温泉「輪りんの宿」)
Personally stayedI stayed here and found it a very useful stop around Yuriage. The natural onsen is excellent after a walking day, and overnight guests have free use of washing machines and dryers. It also pairs naturally with a visit to Natori Trail Center.
Seaside Gaia Resort Hotel (シーサイドガイアリゾートホテル)
A convenient coastal option with an MCT hiker discount available under current conditions.
Nakajima Inn (中島屋旅館 / Nakajima Inn) - Watari
One of the more useful indoor options along the Watari section.
Nakaisho Ryokan (中正旅館) - Watari
A more traditional option offering solo stays and several meal arrangements.
Soma & Matsukawaura
If you are starting or finishing at the southern terminus, decide whether you want to stay near Soma Station or closer to Matsukawaura and the trailhead.
Soma Guest House mawari (相馬ゲストハウス mawari)
A convenient lower-cost start or finish near rail transport.
Ola bayfront inn - Matsukawaura
A new small hotel overlooking Matsukawaura, with single rooms, Wi-Fi and laundry facilities, making it a practical option near the southern end of the trail.
Hotel Minatoya (ホテルみなとや)
A useful option near the southern end of the trail.
Yugaku no Yado Isamiya (遊学の宿 いさみや)
A traditional stay close to Matsukawaura, and a good option if you want to start or finish the MCT in a Japanese inn.
A final word on where you stay
The easiest booking isn't always the most memorable one.
Sometimes a business hotel is exactly what you need: private room, Wi-Fi, laundry, easy booking and no logistical complications.
But some of my favourite memories from the MCT come from the smaller places. You arrive after walking all day, somebody wants to know where you came from, dinner comes from the sea outside, and the accommodation becomes part of the trail rather than somewhere you happen to sleep.
If your budget allows, mix the two. Use hotels where they make your itinerary work, but stay in a locally run minshuku or ryokan when you get the chance.
Above all, plan the difficult nights first. The trail feels very different when you know there is a bed, a hot meal and someone expecting you at the end of the day.